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Monday, September 7, 2009

The Small, Sweet City of Siena


Siena surprised me. I went in only knowing a bit of history I had learned from Wikipedia the night before and I ended up falling in love with this small and charming city. The bus ride was alone was enjoyable. Rolling through the hills of the Chianti, I realized that this is Toscana. This is the real thing. The thing Bed, Bath and Beyond kitchen towels and Barnes and Noble's Tuscan calendars are made of.

Legend says that Siena was founded by Senio and Ascanio, sons of Remus, of the famous duo Romulus and Remus who founded Rome. The she-wolf is found throught the city.



We started off with a two hour tour of the historic center of the city, on the UNESCO World Heritage list, where we learned at there are 17 different sections with names like the catapiller district, owl, wolf, and forest district. Each one has different colors. Back in the day, the districts would fight each other. Nowadays, each neighborhood competes in a bi-annual horse race called the Palio race. Each district had its own colors flags throughout each street (so getting lost is almost impossible) and ornate streetlights also composed of the districts colors.


Siena grew in economic power in the 14th century under Medici...this is the famous bank Monte dei Paschi di Siena that gave employment and security to the citizens throughout the ages and the reason Siena became so prosperous.

We started off with a two hour tour of the city, where we learned at there are 17 different sections with names like the catapiller district, owl, wolf, and forest district. Each one has different colors. Back in the day, the districts would fight each other. Nowadays, each neighborhood competes in a bi-annual horse race called the Palio race. Each district had its own colors flags throughout each street (so getting lost is almost impossible) and ornate streetlights also composed of the districts colors.

The city was very small and quaint and filled with cute little boutiques and some popular stores also found in Florence. All the buildings were old and medieval..kind of how I imagine
Hogwarts would be if Harry Potter took place in Italy...is that a stretch? ;) The three main areas are the Piazza del Campo, Palazzo Pubblico, Duomo, and San Domenico. The Duomo was absolutely beautiful and very impressive.

Siena and Florence were always competing with each other throughout the Middle Ages and Renaissance. The Duomo of Siena or as it is officially known, the Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral, was built in 1216. After it was completed, they started building an extension to be larger then the one in Florence. However, as soon as they started the Black Death hit Siena hard and their population was cut in half. The project was never completed and the remains, to anyone who doesnt know this detail, look like ruins of a pillaged village. The beautiful Duomo is very famous for its bell tower's blue and white strips made with different types of stone.


Lastly, we entered the Piazza del Campo, a huge Piazza boasting a beautiful Bell Tower, Mangia del Torre. What made the scene even more beautiful was the wedding taking place. The bride and groom in the tower looked down at all their guests as tourists took pictures. After the tour was over, Humai, Jenny and I sat in the Piazza with a delicious panini of tomatoes and mozzarella and people-watched. Then, it was time for shopping. Humai and I scouted out for some good clothing stores but had little luck..still cheesy sparkly clothing with strange cuts. We got a little lost but ended up seeing the entire city in and out and around. We found many artisan jewelry shops, handmade candle shops, porcelain stores, and plenty wineshops selling homemade wine from the Chianti. Nami and I deviously bought a small bottle for the bus...thinking we would be all classy drinking local wine as we rode through the Tuscan hills. Then we realized it wasnt very classy at all. We would just be American tourists on a school trip drinking wine in the back of a tour bus. Alas, before the idea was completely corked, I realized the bottle was corked anyway. By four o'clock we were exhausted and happily on the bus to home to Florence, speeding through the countryside...A place that now feels much more like "home." :)

Saturday, September 5, 2009

happy 20th birthday!

Happy 20th Birthday, Christina and Jackie! 
Though we're on 3 different continents right now, in 3 different time zones, having 3 different adventures, I can't wait to be together again in 3 months!

Friday, September 4, 2009

the gelato flows like water


Piazza della Republica at night

Last night, Nami and I walked around Florence and decided to go to the gelateria our friend Sophie's Italian professor recommended where many locals go, La Carraia. It's across the Arno - just over the Ponte Santa Trinita. As we got closer, I could tell it was going to be very good. It was very crowded with locals with a line out the door. Before I got to Italy, I didn't think gelato could be ever be bad. However, now that I've had a fair consumption of gelato I can 
definitely tell the differences between good gelato, decent gelato, bad gelato, and oh-my-God-this-is-incredible-gelato. There are so many ice cream shops here, it's sometimes hard to discern the good from the bad. I think the trick is - or at least the trick I'm using is first glancingat the pistachio flavor. If it's neon green,  I leave. For me, this is a best indicator to see if the gelato is actually produzione propria or not (homemade).  Sometimes, even homemade ice cream can be full of artificial flavors so the neon color thing is really the best indicator.
There are hole in the wall gelaterias, overpriced gelaterias, tacky neon sign tourist trap gelaterias, chain gelaterias but then there is the occasional hidden gem mom-and-pop gelateria. As for now, La Carraia is at the top of my list. I ordered fragola e cioccolato, my favorite, and it was perfect. The gelato was very fresh with chunks of real chocolate and strawberries. Even better, its the cheapest I have found so far - 1.30 euro per due! I will definitely be back! Next on my list is Carabe, just steps away from my apartment on Via Ricasoli. Carabe is run by a lovely Sicilian couple who bring up their ingredients from Sicilia regularly. I haven't tried the homemade gelato yet but they do make a delicious cannoli and cassata. Sophie, Nami and I all went on one late night before closing and ended up receiving what Jenny calls the "hottie discount." That is, the man brought Sophie, Nami and I back into the kitchen to show us how he makes the fresh cannolis. They were very delicious and courtesy of Nami's good looks, free! I will definitely be going back to try the gelato...just maybe not too soon... 

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Once upon a time...

When Sir Harold Acton died in 1994, he left La Pietra, his estate of five villas and 57 acres to New York University. He'd given it with the hope that it would be put to good use, inspire generations of students. And it has.  He really left an amazing gift and a legacy that's exciting to be a part of.

I discovered the gardens of Villa La Pietra yesterday morning and I was very inspired. So inspired that I was tempted to skip Italian class and just sit in the garden all day (don't worry, I went...it was a very pointless introduction to elementary italian class..."ciao!" come stai? cuanti anni hai?" It's troppo lento so far...hopefully it will get better). Anyway, Arthur Acton designed the garden himself in 1908.. and it really is out of a fairytale... I can imagine Cinderella had lost her glass slipper here...

As the man who once wandered these 16th-century replicated gardens so beautifully put it:


 "For me beauty is the vital principle pervading the universe-glistening in stars,

glowing in flowers, 


moving with clouds, 

flowing with water, 

permeating nature and mankind.

By contemplating the myriad manifestations of this vital principle we expand into something greater than we were born. 


Art is the mirror that reflects these expansions, 


sometimes for a moment, 


sometimes for perpetuity."




Sir Harold Acton, 1948

vistas

Monday, August 31, 2009

something new



Three (3) beautiful villas in Tuscany
Two (2) black uni-ball Vision Elite ink pens and a notebook

Three (3) manila folders (though I miss when I was little and called them vanilla)
One (1) new pair of shoes and a bus ticket





a fine first day of school




the only problem is how to concentrate with a view like this?

Viareggio


Saturday, August 29, 2009

Firenze



The view from my bedroom window

On Tuesday, it was back to school.  Ah, it feels so good to finally be able to speak English. So good it is not to be a mute. After separating from mama who seemed very reluctant to leave my apartment after helping me unpack (thanks mama), I met up with Nami at the Duomo. Thank God, a familiar face. We walked around and this group of kids was following us, but we wanted to lose them. In the process, who do we meet but Nami’s banana pants magoo (See Nami’s blog http://unanuovacitta.blogspot.com for further details. Basically, Nami comes across a strange mix between Borat/Kramer real estate lawyer with flamboyant yellow pants who shows her around the city on her first day). Anyway, it was good to put a face to the infamous man in banana pants in Nami’s blog post.
"Valley of Death" - the walk to class in Villa Ullivi

La Bella Venezia

On Monday, we went took a day trip to Venice from Ravenna for the day. Venice is best described as Alex in Wonderland, the movie. It really was so beautiful. I need to get back there ASAP. Words cannot describe how entranced I was by the city. Just pictures.







 

That night, our last night with the family, was very nice. Dinner was absolutely delicious (and vegetarian friendly). Anna was very pleased that I finally devoured her meal. Mmmm. She made Orecchiette rucola e patate from the fresh orecchiette (that we got from the Puglia region in Foggia where orecchiette was born) with potatoes in a tomato arugula sauce. Ah! So good! I must try making this soon… Then, for the secondi platti was a delicious filet of fish and a yummy lemon olive oil salad.  My mother brought out a dessert of assorted pastries from a famous bakery in Venice. It was a very delicious last home-cooked meal.

5 Cities in 10 Days

I know, I know, I know, it’s been awhile! How to explain the past eleven days after exploring five unique Italian cities and various little towns in one blog post... I promise I wont continue to be this lazy with updates. Ive realized that random more frequent excerpts would be much better than long, infrequent explanations of what Ive been up to. I cant possibly explain every beautiful church I’ve seen and inspirational things I have witnessed in the past 10 days. I can only talk about it in vague terms, which is boring. I’ll try my best anyway! 


The flight to Florence was easy as pie (aside from the family of screaming babies 
we sat behind which made for fun times). I took a sleeping pill eventually even though I didn’t think I would need one. Unfortunately, by the time we were in Frankfurt on the layover to Florence, I was still drugged up and passed out, my body numb and spread across three metal chairs. A small car apparently hit the aircraft that was supposed to take us to Florence, so we had to wait longer than expected, but that was okay with me. By the time we got to Florence, I was so refreshed that the entire trip seemed like a short dream.
In the airport in Florence, my mother’s first cousins, Vittorio and Anna were excitedly waiting at the gate. They were so cute. They packed us in their minivan for a week-long Italian roadtrip. They live in Ravenna, so they picked us up in Florence and we rode down the lovely autostrada I would come to know so well to Roma. We were so tired when we got to the apartment hotel that we ate dinner and went right to sleep.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

While stands the Colloseum, Rome shall stand;
When falls the Colloseum, Rome shall fall;
And when Rome falls - the world. 


The next day, we conquered, yes, conquered, Rome in a day. Everyone woke up at the asscrack of dawn (7:30 am, Vittorio was in the Italian military, which I would learn later…I suppose that explains a lot). It was a very hot day but I didn't give a damn. I was delighted to enter the city of Caesar. Here I was at last, standing where the Emperors of ancient Rome once stood. I could only imagine the ancient Romans walking about. We started touring by 9:30...we saw the national monument of Rome, the incredible Colosseum, which gave me the chills. The thought of walking in the same stadium as men adn women from almost 2000 years ago was unbelievable. I could just envision the lions and tigers chained up getting ready to be released on the helpless Christians.  San franceso romana church (with his corpse in the basement! so cool!), the trevi fountain, then some very unimpressive pizza by the Trevi fountain (I had pizza marinara and it was cold and tasteless. Weird right?) Then, we walked to the Piazza Navona which was definitely my favorite piazza. It was very large and spread out, lined with beautiful fancy restaraunts and full of fountains. We saw the Pantheon (ahh!!!). It was so cool to witness the Egyptian (the obelisk with hieroglyphics outside), Greek (the front is modeled after a Greek temple) and Roman influences (the rotunda, or rounded roof of the temple is special to Ancient Roman architecture). I was so excited to see this church as it had comprised countless Art History papers in high school and saved my ass on the AP exam.

 After that, I experience my first gelato in Italia at Vittorio’s favorite shop, Ai Tre Tartufi, that had been there since 1859 (molto bene, i must say. and once you've had the best...it's hard to try the rest).  Something cold was much needed in that seething heat. It was so hot out that mine melted in seconds. It was the height of the heat wave in Rome and no amount of 3 euro water bottles was quenching my thirst.

Anyway, we wandered around some more and finally found the Spanish Steps (so glorious, I wish we could have sat down there longer but it was so hot that day that the sun had turned the stone extremely hot and my ass was on fire taking this photo). We climbed to the top where Daniella was harassed by a gypsy man trying to give her a rose as she shouted “Vai Via!” I thought it was pretty harmless but Daniella was freaked out. Eventually we headed back home, exhausted, to rest. Later, we went to Vecchio Roma on the opposite side of the River from the main city. It was very romantic and beautiful. The bridges all lit up the river and there was a small boardwalk filled with bars, restaurants and a string of carnival games. Anyway, Rome is an art history orgasm. I cannot even give enough justice to because I am writing this after seeing many cities. I definitely need to go back. It’s like when Fred and I went to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Fred summed it up well. "You can never see everything there, but feel guilty not seeing everything."

Friday, August 21, 2009

The next day, we woke up again to Vittorio’s trumpet horn at the ass crack of dawn for Vatican City. The heat wave was still intense in Italy and it was reaching the high nineties by 10am. The Sistene Chapel was definitely an experience. It is the Mecca of Catholicism. I couldn’t believe the amount of marble and ornate details. We decided it would be a good idea to climb to the top of the Vatican in 100 degree weather. Climbing the small 350 stairs of the cupola was not fun. Especially for my sister who was getting scared and clusterphobic as the stairs started getting smaller and smaller and smaller until only half your foot could fit on a stair and the hallways got darker and narrower on every level. “don’t worry dee, you can’t die in church. It’s impossible. No one dies in church,” I told her. We finally got to the top of the Cupola, which was more crowded than a Third Avenue bar on a Thursday night. It was also not at all anymore cooler or breezier up there. In fact, there was probably less oxygen and I don’t recall being thirstier in my life.
Daniella was in a bad mood and Mom was exhausted from the climb so unfortunately I didn't get to see Michaelangelo's frescoes :( which I was pretty depressed about. We hopped back in the car for the drive to Foggia. The drive itself was very scenic and beautiful. We drove through countless mountains of Napoli and farms. I couldn’t believe the small little towns in the middle of nowhere and on top of mountains. For lunch we stopped in Campobasso, a region famous for its Mozzarella di Bufala. 

After more hours in car, my ears falling victim to old Italian music from the fifties and sixties and seventies due to a dead iPod (damn you iPod Touch), we were finally in Foggia around 5pm. My body was aching from sitting in a car and I couldn’t wait to walk around. We got out of the car and immediately were greeted by my mom’s other first cousins Gregorio, his wife Rosa, and daughters Natasha, 20, and Laura, 13.  This was really exciting as we had only been pen pals since we were little! Daniella and I were so surprised as to how small they were. They were sooo mini and petite! Natasha looked liked she was in middle school, for real. We unpacked the car and brought the suitcases inside their apartment. Alas, we found ourselves sitting again, eating again. Rosa prepared some antipasto (like, breadsticks, proscuitto, mozzarella, some mayonnaise vegetable thing (it seems like they really like mayonaisse over here), boiled eggs and toast things with olive tapenade…). It wasnt very good at all but the spaghetti pomodoro was just the way I like it (without meat, thank the Lord and full of sweet garlic goodness). Soon after, Natasha asked Daniella and I to go out with her to “el centro” – the downtown. After taking the bus from their apartment downtown, we meet her boyfriend and his friend Michele in a park (which was still very crowded with kids and families at night). We walked around and they showed us their small downtown and went into a Cuban themed pub. I soon realized it was a Friday night and we were the only ones in the pub.  Foggia is definitely a different type of city. In America, it wouldn’t even be called a city but a large rural town with a center that has a large and old (and beautiful church). Anyway, the pub was lame so we left and the Italians decided to take us to their new bowling center. We got into Michele’s car and he proceeded to blare angry Sum 41 music and go 90 mph. The car had no seatbelts. I decided I was an idiot and a bad example for my younger sister. I turned to my sister Daniella and said, “This is very dangerous.” She quickly rolled her eyes at me like I was being an irrational mom. Though my mom didn’t even care when I told her hours later that night. “Mom, we almost died tonight.” Maria didn’t seem to care.  “That’s what they do here Alex.” Am I crazy?? Or just a nerd?
Anyway, you can’t imagine the happiness I felt when the car was finally parked. My heart was still beating as we walked toward the bowling alley. Anyway, the bowling alley was like entering a time machine to 1985. No kidding. Everything is so outdated and florescent. I felt like I was in a Chuck E. Cheese. But its not just at the bowling alley but everywhere in Foggia. They are just trapped in time. By the way, I fail at bowling.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Not much happened on Saturday. We went to the centro comericial or the mall which was very…. Interesting. Italian fashion for the youth is horrible in my opinion. Very tacky. I felt like most of the things could have been found on Canal Street or in anywhere in Chinatown for that matter. However, I got a pretty nice haircut and blow out. I was SO nervous because I couldn’t express how I wanted it in Italian, but luckily I had the help of my cousin Natasha and it turned out pretty nice.That night, we went to a pizzeria/dance club outdoor thing. It was a very nice night. Maria got prettttty tipsy. It was fun dancing under the stars.
Sunday, August 23, 2009

The long haul to Ravenna…six hours in the car, six hours up the boot of Italia! This drive was very beautiful. Mountains to your left and a beautiful blue sea to the right. My iPod was charged so it was a nice chill ride I actually really enjoyed. All those hours on your own, in your own head, with no where to go or nothing to worry about, is really enjoyable. 
We finally arrived in Ravenna around dinnertime. Anna's daughter, Maria, had prepared dinner: Primi platti: Penne with a thick bolognese sauce. While some say delicious, I say no grazie. Anyway, Anna was quite offended watching my sister and I pick through the sauce…oopsies.  The pasta was followed by grilled steak and bruschetta on grilled focaccia. Anna got even more mad that my sister and I didn’t eat the steak. My mother then explained to Anna and Vittorio and the entire table that I am a vegetarian (even though I’m not). I later asked why she told them this, and she said it was the easiest way for them to understand that I didn’t like meat. Anyway, that made for awkward times. After dinner, my cousin Alessandro, also 20, took my sister and I around Ravenna’s downtown. Ravenna was absolutely adorable. A small artsy city with so much medieval history. Everyone, I mean everyone, bike rides to get around.  The cobblestone downtown was filled with chic shops and restaurants and gelatarias of course.  Alessandro showed us where Dante’s tomb was which was really cool..though really eerie in the nighttime. Anyway, I think Ravenna is the perfect place to live if I lived in Italy. It’s right on the beach, though the actual main downtown is inland.  After the short tour, Alessandro took us to one of his breakdancing gatherings. Supposedly, my cousin is the only breakdancer in Italy to be able to bounce on his head. um. ouch. haha. It was cool to watch and I now have a newfound respect for the breakdancing scene.

and this... this is so i can always remember those painful car rides crammed in the backseat...

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

it's OK to be sad sometimes.

After weeks of preparation, months of anticipation, it's finally come. It's 12 am, August 18, the day I leave for a semester in Florence, Italy. And while I am so excited for an experience of a lifetime, I can't help but be sad. Watching my boyfriend drive away, buying my last ticket home from New York City, seeing my grandmother start to cry, even leaving my internship I so adored and taking the elevator down to the lobby of the building...


...saying goodbye to something you really and truly love can be so painful and hard.


I know, I know, I know. "I have so much to look forward to." It's true. I have never been to Europe. And at this very moment, writing this on the couch of my TV room, I can't even fathom seeing the art and architecture I've only read about and seen on shoddy projection screens in Art History class. This Wednesday, I will be in Rome! Friday, I will be in Foggia, visiting lots of family and seeing the city where my Nonna grew up in wartorn Italy. this we
ekend, I will be in Ravenna with more family and finally on Tuesday I will be in Florence to start school. I know it will be tremendously exciting and I'll have an amazing time.

But right now, right now, I think it's OK to be sad. It was such an amazing summer. It's hard to say goodbye to it.

I'll miss you.

Friday, August 14, 2009

summertime

Friday, August 7, 2009

10 DAYS UNTIL I LEAVE FOR ITALIA!


Thursday, July 23, 2009

under the sea and in the lavendar fields.

Last weekend, my family and I took a weekend trip to Long Island. I had forgotten how much I loved it out there. Memories of Montauk on the Southfork and East Marion on the Northfork flood my mind of vacations in the carefree country and seaside living. I love both the Southfork and the Northfork, but I feel the Northfork has a lot of exciting potential as it has not been completely developed as a tourist destination yet. Now that I am older, I can realize its growing potential (and its great local vineyard vino). It is certainly changing fast, each year it becomes a little more developed, as Manhattanites venture from the Hamptons and Montauk to the Northfork. When I was little, I recall Greenport only had a few smalltown stores, restaurants and churches on the port. Now, the downtown boasts chic lounges and bars, cool eateries, and even a Calypso clothing store. Once a bunch of sleepy fisherman's towns, the Northfork of Long Island is now being woken up by young Manhattan families and singles itching for a quick weekend escape from the city. Of course, still there is one of the best Greek restaurants I have been to on this side of the Atlantic. Everytime we go to East Marion we eat at The Hellenic Snack Bar & Taverna by default. It is located literally in the middle of nowhere, but it has become a landmark restaurant since it first opened in the mid-seventies. Eating their fresh Greek food and homemade lemonade on the garden patio is always a great dining experience.
One of my favorite and little-known places is a beach that only few go to on Rocky Point Road. Carved off a cliff, the beach is not made of sand, but stones, which makes for a painful (but cleaner) beach experience. It is a very picturesque place to just sit for hours with a good book.

Down the street from the beach on Rocky Point Road is a lavendar farm, another new addition since we had been there last. Owned by a French family, who was sitting out amongst the lavendar on a picnic table, eating Brie on flatbread and drinking local wine, like true Europeans, the Lavendar Farm boasts over twenty types of lavendar over acres of land. You can pick your own lavendar and they also sell the honey cultivated by the bees. At the store, lavendar oils, soaps, candles are also sold. A trip to this farm will make you feel like you are far off in some Provence in the French countryside. Long Island is a quick escape and a world away from Manhattan. All in all, it was a great weekend. I couldn't help but appreciate the simple beauty of nature and how much New York has to offer. The Northfork has been Long Island's best kept secret. But not for long.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Summer Reading


Tuesday, April 14, 2009

happy easter

The easter bunny has always freaked me out. I know this because I still have a photo of the easter bunny and I at age 3. I am hysterically crying in the photo and freaking out. Clearly, that feeling never changed. They are still just as horrifying...




i.e:


just when i though bunny suits could not get more creepy...

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

71 Irving Place


71 Irving Place Coffee & Tea Bar
- very adorable and cozy coffeeshop tucked in Irving Place right near Gramercy Park. I am not a big fan of coffee, but their cup is delicious, organic, and local (the beans are from the Hudson Valley) and the atmosphere is very calming.